Executive sushi chef Jesus Contreras is part owner of Sushi House.
Sushi House
- 15911 Biscayne Blvd.
- North Miami Beach, FL 33160
- 305-947-6002
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- $$, $10 - $20
- Asiática, Japonesa, Pescados y mariscos
Jesús Contreras, Chef, ejecutivo y copropietario de Sushi House, incorpora los sabores de su México natal así como América del Sur y Central.
Like a flashy white stretch limo, Sushi House is an unlikely vision parked between a furniture store and a copy shop in yet another North Miami Beach strip mall.
Willowy potted palms define the patio space, and inside you are greeted with a Delano-esque, white-on-white cloud of sheer curtains, huge slabs of milky marble and elaborate chandeliers that shed a subtle glow on the tables below.
A dramatically long and high marble communal table divides the space between the more romantic spots and the casual bar area, where a large but not obnoxious flat-screen shows sports events and hosts a buzzing 5:30-8 p.m happy hour.
The best seats in the house are the sleek aluminum bars stools facing the team of white-clad slicers and dicers who turn out innovative and delicious sushi rolls. The talented team is headed up by Jesus Contreras, executive sushi chef and part owner, formerly of Chicago's Su Casa of Tokyo.
Contreras incorporates the flavors of his native Mexico as well as South and Central America in such standouts as a tile fish ceviche with sweet cubes of ripe mango, tomato and crunchy nibs of corn with laces of red onion, jalapeño and cilantro. It's served with a batch of crispy, hand-hewn tostada chips perfect for dipping.
Similar flavors play beautifully on the sushi pizza, built on a toasty flour tortilla with slabs of tomato-red tuna working against red onion and hits of cilantro, all held together by a spicy rémoulade.
A spare but divine wine list includes a number of perfect-for-pairing sakes such as Hiko's Milky, a creamy white blend of rice wine with a hint of sweetness. Other fine choices include a value Albariño and a fine, crisp Spanish sushi wine from Oroya.
Contreras and his staff proffer complimentary tastes of such delicacies as tempuraed scallop medallions in a sweet soy sauce and a fantastic tuna tataki peeking out beneath a tangle of snappy seaweed salad.
The young, friendly and with-it wait staff is full of good advice you'd be wise to follow. We were rewarded with a delightfully crunchy salmon dish -- a pile of bright flavors including green onion, tempura flakes with a fiery mayonnaise sauce and popping bubbles of smelt roe encircled by slivers of cucumber.
The best flavors of the night are to be found in expertly wrapped and innovatively designed rolls including the oshi, a packet of contrasting flavors and textures including spicy tuna, avocado, crab meat, tempura shrimp, eel, spicy tuna, teriyaki and garlic sauce. Also exquisite is the house roll with spicy octopus tempura, tuna tartare, a sweet eel sauce and a mild wasabi mayo.
Many dishes, including a miso-seared snapper, succeed thanks to an arsenal of delectable sauces that are squirted on plates -- sometimes a little too enthusiastically. I tend to prefer spicy over sweet, and found some of the sauces overly sugary. Be sure to tell the chefs what you like and they will oblige.
Purists had best stick to the straight-up sushi and sashimi menus. The fish options are wonderfully varied and deftly handled. Choices the nights we visited included tuna, toro, eel, shrimp, octopus, yellowtail, salmon, scallop, striped bass, octopus, tile fish, red snapper, mackerel, fluke, surf clam, squid, king crab, giant clam and a rainbow of fish eggs.
When we veered from our waitress' suggestions (she frowned at most everything on the narrow Asian-fusion menu), the results were utterly unmemorable. The pad Thai was passable, the vegetable lettuce wrap was decent, and the lukewarm tom ka soup had more flabby mushrooms than flavor. Still, it was stocked plentifully with scallops, shrimp and a big fat green mussel. A ginger salad lacked any of the rhizome's characteristic zing.
Desserts, including a deep-fried banana rolled in rice, are more ambitious than good.
Horario
5:30-10:30 p.m. martes-domingos, hasta 11:30 p.m. viernes-sábadosDetalles
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Localización
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